Southeast Michigan Woodworkers

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 16, 2017 8:04 am 
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Apprentice
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Joined: Wed Jun 21, 2017 11:44 am
Posts: 30
Location: Rochester MI
I have a box (cardboard) of old moulding planes that have the fine patina of age (dirt, grease, mold,...) Is a quick wash with dish soap ok to clear off the initial grunge? Something else? I'll try to post some pic tonight. Thx


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 16, 2017 10:28 am 
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Master

Joined: Tue Oct 11, 2016 9:39 am
Posts: 132
Location: Plymouth
The wood or the blades?

Not with molding planes, but with grimy knobs and totes of bench planes I've done mineral spirits or DNA since it cuts dirt and dries quickly, and then I either rewax or shellac them. If you're trying to leave any finish that may be on them and just remove grime, obviously a solvent is dicey. What about a rag and something like a museum wax?

I don't really know if molding planes were traditionally finished in some way... what I've read seems like it's a mixed bag, and if they are older, it seems a safe bet that some combination of wax and shellac was used, so of course DNA will take that right off.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 16, 2017 12:00 pm 
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Elite

Joined: Wed Mar 16, 2005 5:22 pm
Posts: 641
Location: Monroe, Michigan
Depending on how much "patina" there is on the planes, I usually start with a damp rag with soap on it, I use dish washing detergent or Murphy's Oil Soap, whatever is handy. Keep the water to a minimum so the body of the plane does not absorb too much. This will get rid of the water soluble dirt. I then wipe them down with mineral spirits or WD-40, again whatever is handy. Finally, I apply a coat or two of paste wax using 0000 steel wool or a fine abrasive pad. The last step helps clean off a little more dirt and, in my opinion, the plane looks and feels better.

For the blade, I scrape off the worst of the rust with a razor blade, then sand lightly with medium sandpaper that has already been used and lost most of its abrasiveness. Then sharpen per your normal routine. With molding planes, you may have to profile the cutting edge a little, the projection of the blade from the sole of the plane must EXACTLY match the sole of the plane for it to work correctly.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 17, 2017 6:34 am 
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Apprentice
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Joined: Wed Jun 21, 2017 11:44 am
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Location: Rochester MI
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Pulled everything out of the box and scrubbed with Murhpy's which cleaned the grunge off and left the patina which sees to be mostly wax. Looks like I have a functional block plane, a 1-1/4” bull nose, a 1/2” rebate, and a small router plane. The rest don’t have blades. Mfg are Ohio Plane and Sandusky Tool Co


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