Southeast Michigan Woodworkers

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 07, 2017 8:20 pm 
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Apprentice

Joined: Sat Sep 05, 2015 3:22 pm
Posts: 35
I've made a number of boxes out of cherry and walnut, and the router bit took an extra couple bites out of the walnut. It's going to be finished with danish oil, and I'm looking for some product that will blend in as much as possible with the walnut. Any suggestions?


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 09, 2017 11:16 am 
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Elite

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2006 9:37 am
Posts: 389
Location: Waterford, Michigan
I've use a thin chip of the same wood glued in the void. I also keep a plastic bag of fine Walnut sawdust. Rub it in the void, cover with super glue and then cover with sawdust. Sand.

I had a more than a few screw ups on this box I made a few weeks ago. Especially around the "Moon".


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 10, 2017 10:49 am 
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Obsessed

Joined: Wed Jan 04, 2006 8:12 pm
Posts: 1826
Location: Ypsilanti
Yes, a "thin chip of the same wood glued in the void" can work or even a bigger piece mortised in, sometimes called a "dutchman".

I've never had any success with that frequently-recommended method, sanding dust from the same wood mixed with glue. It never absorbs penetrating finish, it never matches, and I regard recommendations for this method as mythology. Sorry JC. (I'm glad it works for you. Beautiful box btw. We want to see (and hear) more about it, please.)

Somethig I have done recently is save coffee grounds and the ground-tea-leaves content of tea-bags, dry them out well, and mix them with epoxy for use as walnut filler. Mix in artist's oil colors if you like for tinting: burnt umber, raw umber, burnt sienna, maybe there is another color I disrecall. This method takes some experimenting, and remember that it also won't absorb finish (or at least, it won't absorb finish the same way) and it is the finished surface you are trying to match.

Also recall that if you can't invisibly-fill a defect, sometimes it is better to feature it. Let us know your results.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 10, 2017 11:00 am 
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Journeyman
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Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2016 6:50 pm
Posts: 88
Location: Plymouth
Have any of you seen or used this product called "Knot Filler"? https://woodrepair.eu/products/knot-filler It looks almost like it's dispensed with a hot glue gun, then cooled w/ an aluminum block (to absorb the heat) and then just razor bladed flush w/ the surface. It looks like it is more readily available in Europe, but has 1 dealer in the US (Rangate http://rangate.com/products?product=17) but the starter kit is pricey.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C2x_aMrvtyc


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 10, 2017 4:53 pm 
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Elite

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2006 9:37 am
Posts: 389
Location: Waterford, Michigan
I generally use dye and BLO so have not had the stain problem. Also, I use the sawdust method primarily for small goofs.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 11, 2017 9:55 am 
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Master

Joined: Thu Jan 02, 2014 10:08 am
Posts: 190
Location: Ann Arbor
Have you looked into Timbermate?


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 10:16 am 
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Apprentice

Joined: Sat Sep 05, 2015 3:22 pm
Posts: 35
Thanks for all the information. I've got some walnut sanding dust already sitting in a bag, and was going to experiment with clear epoxy vs super glue. I've just ordered some timbermate too. I'm up against the deadline so I won't have time to do the coffee and tea dye, but I like that idea. I'm going to gouge some of my walnut scrap, fill in, and see what matches the finish best.

How big a gap can I reasonably expect to use the timbermate or superglue mix for? The biggest ones are around 1/8" deep by 1/8"-3/16" wide.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 12:06 pm 
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Apprentice

Joined: Sun Aug 07, 2011 7:41 am
Posts: 39
I've used fine sanding dust with blond shellac and had good results as it still takes finish. Works pretty good for very small gaps, like in mitered frames but anything bigger or deeper doesn't dry well. More or less noticeable depending on the color of the wood and size of the gap.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 5:43 pm 
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Elite

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2006 9:37 am
Posts: 389
Location: Waterford, Michigan
Quote:
The biggest ones are around 1/8" deep by 1/8"-3/16" wide.


3/16" may be a little wide for sawdust on face grain to face grain. I had about a 1/8+" drill grab on the dowel hole for the breadboard on this dresser. You can see that the sawdust and glue matched the walnut end grain of the walnut dowel but not the face grain. (The photo magnified it quite a bit.) No one else notices it until I point it out.
I'm trying to remember if I saw Norm Abrahm or Tommy Mac do a chip fix that looked pretty good. Whoever it was took pain to match the grain.


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